Weather forecast for May 22, 2018:
Clearwater Beach, Clearwater, Florida
Low 66 high 79, Occasional thunder storms
Southwest winds, 10 to 15 kts
Captain’s Log: March 26, 2018 thru May 20, 2018
After being awake for over 24 hours, and with our first big-water crossing behind us, we slept in. So, at the crack of noon on March 26th, we slowly emerged from our much-needed slumber and started preparing for the next leg of our open-ended journey.
We set our sights on the Clearwater Beach Marina but, after calling the marina to see if there were any transient slips available that could accommodate a 47ft sailboat, we learned that there was no room at the Inn. The Beach Marina suggested that we try the Clearwater Municipal Marina, which is located on the city-side of the Clearwater Memorial Causeway.
Our daughter Jamie and grand daughters Ali and Caroline were scheduled to meet us in Clearwater during the second week of April and our son Josh and his family were coming to Clearwater during the last week of April. Shirley’s good friends Melissa and Kim live in the area as well so we planned to be dockside or at least one month, catching up with family and friends.
We stayed at the Municipal Marina for two weeks and, during that time, became familiar with the downtown area. The heart of the city is very nice and we enjoyed our time exploring. We also met the Captains and crew of the replicas of Christopher Columbus' Nina and Pinta, which were passing through Clearwater and spent one night at the dock next to us.
During one of our first walks through the downtown area we came across signworX, a little shop that does custom printing and embroidery. We had been thinking about buying a few baseball hats and then have our boat logo embroidered on them, so we decided to make an inquiry.
Inside we met Leif Oskarsson, the owner. We learned that Leif, a former Swedish military man who used to ski-patrol along the Soviet boarder, also owns 13 Jiffy Lube franchises in the area and is a member of the Clearwater Planning Board. We stuck up a friendship with Leif while also doing some business with him. Leif actually pulled some strings for us with the Mayor who subsequently allowed us to extend our stay at the Municipal Marina (which was against city policy).
We were surprised to learn that Clearwater is the world spiritual headquarters for the Church of Scientology and that the Church owns a lot of the downtown area. A local Uber driver told us that Tom Cruise owns a six-story building on the main intersection of the downtown; he pointed it out to us as we drove by. When in town, working with/for the Church, Cruise occupies the top three floors. The lower floors are apparently reserved for his car collection.
Being so close to the center of the Church, and being surrounded by unsmiling armies of Scientologists, all dressed in their uniforms (blue, brown or beige pants/skirts and vests with white shirts and blue, brown or beige ties), we naturally became very curious.
One evening, while walking through the center of town, we decided to venture into the Scientology Welcome Center, a large, stately, columned, three-story, stone building that was once the home of a bank. It had a sign on the sidewalk by the front doors stating “All Are Welcome”.
We were greeted by a tall, attractive, smiling black woman who proceeded to tell us all about her wonderful life as a Scientologist. We learned that all of the uniformed people that we were seeing all around us were wards of the Church, provided with food and housing, and working eight hours/day, seven days/week for the Church. We also learned that each of them has signed a 1-billion-year contract with the Church. 1-billion-years? Strange, but our hostess seemed content and full of enthusiasm. We also learned that she was born into the Church and that it was the only life that she knew.
Being somewhat surprised, and a little shocked by what we had learned, we decided to do a bit of internet-based investigation. We streamed a couple of Netflix documentaries and decided to steer clear of LRH and his “Church”. It was in interesting and educational exercise.
The Municipal Marina was a bit expensive and, when a spot opened for us at the Beach Marina, we slipped the lines and crossed the ICW.
The Beach Marina had a totally different vibe; touristy, party atmosphere, surf shops, restaurants and, of course, an absolutely beautiful beach and awesome sunsets.
Palm Court, Frenchies, Jimmy’s Crows Nest and Cooters are great watering holes. Blinkers, owned by a Cincinnati couple who also owns an establishment by the same name in Covington, Kentucky, is an outstanding steakhouse. We watched Justify win the Kentucky Derby while enjoying a great steak dinner at Blinkers. The Bait Shop’s ‘drunken shrimp’, cooked in a bourbon reduction sauce and served with hot, homemade bread, was our absolute favorite meal – the best shrimp that both of us have ever enjoyed. The Bait Shop is a real dive; you actually walk through a bait shop to get to the bar.
We spent a little over four weeks at the Beach Marina, hosting our children and friends, and meeting several interesting characters.
Captain Mark, the 50-something owner and operator of s/v Clearwater, a 52ft, custom steel-hull charter schooner, came by to introduce himself one evening after he cruised past our boat. We spent several evenings conversing with Mark, talking about our respective craft, the charter business and life in the Clearwater area.
We kept running into, and exchanging pleasantries with Captain Richie, who was doing some extended maintenance on a 60ft motor yacht sitting in a slip just down the dock from us. Shirley has never met a stranger and before long she damn near adopted Richie, who reminded Shirley of her twins Jerry and Josh.
Richie lives on his Whitby 42ft ketch, which sits in the anchorage just east of the Beach Marina. We had some good times with Richie, sharing strong waters and talking about life.
Months ago, way back north at Turner Marine in Mobile, Alabama, we came across a ‘couple’ living on a 26ft derelict sailboat. They were headed for Key West and, given the condition of their boat, we didn’t think that they had a snowball’s chance in Hell to make it across Mobile Bay, much less down to the Keys.
The ‘woman’ was heavy and butch, sporting short hair and being the dominant one. The ‘man’ was thin, effeminate and wore women’s clothing while working on their boat. These gender-benders left Turner before we did; we thought that we would never see them again.
To our great surprise, we noticed their boat sitting at anchor near Captain Richie’s ketch. One day, while riding around in our dinghy, we passed close by and Shirley started a conversation with the ‘woman’. The ‘man’ soon came on deck wearing a woman’s bikini; to each his own. Richie later told us that they allegedly supported themselves by producing internet-base porno. The visual was very disturbing.
After almost eight weeks in the Clearwater area, much longer than we had anticipated, it came time for us to move on. On May 25th we bid a fond farewell to our new friends and headed for Gulf Port, on Boca Ciega Bay.
The adventure continues!
Until next time, may your tomorrow bring fair winds and following seas.