Weather forecast for April 28, 2019:
Cocoa, Florida
Low 75 high 88
North winds, 10 to 12 kts
Captain’s Log: April 25, 2019 thru April 27, 2019
Mack Sails finally delivered our repaired mainsail at 11:00am on Thursday, April 25th, and at 1:00pm we left the dock at Fort Pierce Municipal Marina, heading for Vero Beach, 13 miles north on the ICW.
Our first obstacle, the South Fort Pierce Bridge, stands just outside of the marina channel. Locals had warned us that the bridge, a 65ft-high fixed structure, was actually only 64ft off of the water at mean high tide. Our air clearance is 63.5ft so, if the locals were correct, it would be a very tight squeeze if we passed under the bridge at any time other than low tide. We missed low tide by one hour but we made it past the bridge without incident.
The North Fort Pierce Bridge, a draw bridge less than one mile north of the south bridge, was another matter altogether. We had issues at this bridge. Actually, our issues were with the bridge tender and the other pleasure boats queueing up to pass during the next opening.
Holding Perfect Love stationery in a seaway is not easy so I usually try to stay about 100 yards away from a draw bridge until I see all auto traffic crossing the bridge stop, at which time I start to motor slowly towards the bridge. As soon as the bridge starts to open I increase speed, trying to time my arrival at the structure no more than 2 minutes after it is fully opened. Variables outside of my control such as wind, current, other boat traffic and the timing of the bridge tender can, and often do, play unpleasant games with this approach.
On this particular occasion the wind and the current were pushing us towards the lee shore so I had to fight to keep us in the channel and the bow pointing towards the bridge. There were four boats behind us also struggling to keep their places in line. Out of nowhere, and immediately after all auto traffic across the bridge stopped, a jerk at the helm of an Island Packet 40ft sloop overtook us. The grumpy bridge tender had not yet started the opening process so, besides being a little perturbed at the rudeness, I was very surprised to see the Island Packet head straight for the bridge at a pretty good clip. Things got even more interesting when the bridge tender was at least four minutes late to start the opening process.
The Island Packet was dangerously close the bridge when the roadway sections finally parted and slowly began to rise. At the last possible moment, realizing that he was not going to make it, the Packet's captain turned hard away from the bridge and lost his place in line. We were next in the queue and passed through maybe 30 seconds after the bridge was fully opened. Fittingly, the Packet ended up last in line, but at least he still had his mast.
Ten miles further down the ICW, approaching Vero Beach, we passed under the Alma Lee Loy Bridge and then the Merrill Barber Bridge, both 65ft-high, fixed structures. A hard turn to starboard just after the Barber Bridge put us in the channel leading to the Vero Beach City Marina mooring field.
All the mooring balls were occupied so the marina was asking newcomers to raft up with a vessel of a similar size. No way! There was absolutely no way that we were going to tie up our big, beautiful girl to some stranger's boat. That was not going to happen. We cruised through the mooring field and dropped anchor in 8 feet of water in front of Fritz Island on the very northern end of the waterway. There were 3 other boats anchored nearby.
After a half mile dinghy ride we tied up to the marina's dinghy dock (without the required permit); the Riverside Cafe was our destination. Shirley and Ted had spent some quality time at Vero Beach back in 2012 and the Riverside Cafe was their favorite spot. Although she didn't show it, I am sure that Shirley had an emotional moment or two while we were there.
I ordered Cuban sliders off of the Happy Hour menu and Shirley had a salad and fish tacos. We washed our dinner down with a few beers while sitting at the bar and talking to friendly strangers. Downtown Vero Beach was about one mile away and Shirley was determined to show me the quaint little village so we paid the bill and headed out the door.
Huge live oaks lined the street that we chose, their big branches, heavy with Spanish moss, stretched across the pavement towards each other as if they were trying to join hands, creating a tunnel-like passage. It was beautiful. It reminded me of the neighborhood streets of Savannah.
Downtown Vero Beach is really nice. Boutique shops mingle with a few high-rise condo building and the small, well-kept hotels that line the shore. Everything is very neat and clean and inviting. I can see why Vero is often referred to as 'Velcro Beach'. It gets hard to leave. Although we were only staying for one night, we will most definitely be coming back. We treated ourselves to Kilwin's ice cream and then started our one-mile trek back to the dinghy. We arrived at our boat to find the Island Packet that almost hit the draw bridge back at Fort Pierce anchored near us.
Friday, April 26th, was our granddaughter Leah's seventh birthday. She happened to be off of school that day so we were able to call and wish her a Happy Birthday. We then weighed the anchor and headed for Melbourne. It was going to be a long day, we had three fixed bridges, no draw bridges and 35 miles to cover.
The cruise up the Indian River was uneventful. We had spotty showers; it was windy and the River was fairly choppy, especially near the Sebastian Inlet. Along the way we passed six or seven derelict boats, mostly sailboats. I can understand why property owners are so strident about limiting anchorages, these derelicts are a real eyesore. I know that I would be upset and angry if we had invested in a beautiful piece of property along the ICW only to have someone abandon a trashy boat off of my shore.
An occasional runabout and/or kayaker could be seen loitering around some of the many small islands along the route. These islands, covered with palm trees and mangroves, their sandy shores littered with broken limbs and tree trunks, usually had a sign designating them as wildlife sanctuaries.
There was a lot of shoaling and quite a few sandbars, some rising above the water but many just below the surface. We had to remain vigilant.
At 3:00pm, after passing under the Eau Gallie Causeway, we made a hard turn to port and dropped our hook in 7ft of water at the Eau Gallie North anchorage on the west side of the ICW.
We secured the boat and then enjoyed our SAD after which the XO cooked some delicious chicken fajitas. Later that evening a short but violent thunderstorm, accented by some spectacular chain lightning, rolled through the anchorage. When things finally calmed down we could hear festive voices and a band playing at the very crowded watering hole located at the marina just across from us. It was Friday night, the bar was accented with multi-colored lights, the music was loud and I am sure that the locals were kicking and shaking on the dance floor. All is well in Melbourne tonight.
We left Eau Gallie at 9:20am on Saturday morning. We had 15 miles and two fixed bridges standing between us and Cocoa Village Marina, our destination and would-be home for the next month.
Until next time, may your tomorrow bring fair winds and following seas.