Weather forecast for September 05, 2019:
Jacksonville, Florida
Low 70 high 92
North winds, 8 to 15 kts, sunny and humid
Captain’s Log: August 05, 2019 thru September 04, 2019
Our new temporary home, The Marina at Ortega Landing, is a really nice place. Located on the Ortega River, a tributary of the St. Johns River, about 20 miles from the ocean, this marina boasts a beautiful lounge, swimming pool, hot tub, great shower facilities and well-maintained, heavy, floating docks. It is one of the premiere hurricane holes on the east coast and why we chose to come here.
Our original slip assignment was on the T at the end of ‘A’ dock but, the day before we arrived, we were told that a broken-down trawler was temporarily occupying our spot. Upon our arrival we were directed to slip 75 of ‘B’ dock. As I turned into the fairway between ‘A’ and ‘B’ docks the wind and current pushed me too far down the fairway and I had to execute some fancy maneuvers to reposition us before easing our battering-ram bowsprit into the slip.
The owner of the 80ft motor yacht in slip 74 was on the dock and instructing me to back into the slip. The XO ever so politely replied "NO WAY". Backing Perfect Love is not an easy thing to do under any conditions; with multi-million dollar yachts on either side of me, and with the current and wind conditions as they were, a bow-in approach was the only way to go. We made it with no issues, but I was perspiring profusely. We secured the boat, met a few of our new dock neighbors and then, as the sun was setting, relaxed on the fore-deck with a glass of wine.
The next morning we familiarized ourselves with the facility and then explored the surrounding neighborhood on foot. Old streets of small homes and large, stately manors, lined with huge live oak trees dripping with Spanish moss, lead from the marina to a near-by shopping district that boasts a Publix supermarket, a Panera Bread cafe, a West Marine store and a Chik-Fil-A restaurant. We will be comfortable here.
Two days after our arrival at Ortega we decided to rent a car, drive down to St. Augustine and retrieve our SUV. Now, with wheels at our disposal, it was time to explore Jacksonville. We were a bit disappointed.
Several weeks ago, while still in St. Augustine, I told a gentleman that we were heading for Jacksonville. “Why” he said, “I live in Jacksonville and there is nothing there” he added. Unfortunately, he was right.
We did enjoy the Neptune Beach/Atlantic Beach/Jacksonville Beach areas, but downtown and the west side of town (other than the marina and immediate surrounding area) are unimpressive. While in Neptune Beach we stopped at the famous Pete's Bar.
About Pete's Bar:
"During prohibition the bar's first owner, Peter Jensen, used to sell bootleg liquor from his nearby grocery store. When prohibition ended in 1933 Pete's Bar was the first in Duval County to receive a liquor license. Peter's granddaughter, Nancy Jensen, owns the business now with her four children. Her secret to success? Change nothing. "I had one man walk in the door and say 'thank God.' And I said why are you saying that sir? He said I haven't been at the beach for 40 years. Everything has changed but Pete's hasn't changed at all," said Jensen.
Historical pictures and photos of annual events line the wall of Petes like the yearly Thanksgiving celebration. "Two blocks are totally packed with people. We've had people fly in from Colorado and California," said Jensen.
Some famous folks have bellied up to Pete's bar. "Hemingway was here one time many, many years ago. I think Jimmy Fallon was here," said Jensen.
And so was author John Grisham. He not only wrote about the bar in his book, "The Brethren," but wrote part of the book in the bar while staying at the beach. "The daytime bartender said I recognize him. I know him. He was sitting in here writing. I didn't know what he was doing. But I think we were just convenient. A convenient location for him," said Jensen."
A few days later we drove 30 miles south to Green Cove Springs, Florida (our official, full-time residence). We had never been to our official residence and decided that, being so close, we should take a look.
A lonely external fuel tank from the NASA Space Shuttle Program and an abandoned 737 airframe, both sitting in a large field between the Smith Maritime Boatyard and the Green Cove Springs Marina, were novelties that caught our interest, but the rest of the town was nondescript.
While lounging at the marina pool the next afternoon we were invited to join several cruising couples for an outing that evening. They were going to see Paul and Christine, another cruising couple living on their boat at the marina, who were performing at a local Mexican restaurant roof-top bar. Paul, a fiddle player, and Christine, a vocalist, are part of a great-sounding trio and have frequent gigs throughout Jacksonville. It was a great evening and we made a lot of new friends.
A few days later I received a call from a woman who had seen the listing of Perfect Love on Sailboats.com. She immediately told me that she was not interested in buying the boat, but was very interested in learning more about the restoration process as she and her husband were in the middle of a similar effort; the restoration of a Hudson 45 ketch.
Her many questions eventually led to an invitation to tour our boat; which led to an invitation to tour their boat. In short, we became friends with Scott, a retired pilot, and Christine, a real estate attorney. In appreciation for all of the guidance that we provided to them, they took us out to dinner in Neptune Beach after touring their Hudson.
Tuesday, August 12
Bruce, the marina manager, had previously asked us to move our boat from slip 75 on 'B' dock to slip 94 on 'C' dock so, taking advantage of slack tide and no wind, we expertly backed Perfect Love out of slip 75 and into slip 94. Who says you can't back a Vagabond 47?
Thursday, August 14
We have a free Delta Airlines ticket that must be used before August 31st so we decide to take a last-minute trip to Denver to visit our son Jim and daughter-in-law Lyndsay. Our flight out of Jacksonville is 45 minutes late due to mechanical problems and we almost miss our connection out of Atlanta to Denver.
With tensions high and a lot of hustle, we make the connection, only to have that flight delayed by 55 minutes due to a passenger's medical emergency. We touch down in Denver 90 minutes behind schedule and arrive at Jim & Lyndsay's place at 11:30pm, mountain time.
The next day the four of us drive into the mountains for a kayaking adventure on Lake Dillon, just west of Keystone. It is a beautiful day but we get caught in west-bound traffic east of the Eisenhower Tunnel. By the time we get to Lake Dillon it is cloudy and cold with rain threatening. Kayaking is cancelled and we head to Breckenridge for a casual walk around town.
From Breckenridge we head for Keystone where an outdoor food and music festival is underway. The skies are clear again, the food is great and the music is even better. A band called 'The Brothers Comatose', out of San Francisco, is really outstanding.
Jim takes the Loveland Pass route on the trip back to Denver. We drive through the Arapaho Basin and stop at the Continental Divide to get a few pictures. The mountains are spectacular!
Monday, August 19
We move from Jim and Lyndsay's condo to Karen's house (Shirley's very good friend) for a few days. While Shirley and Karen are busy working during the day and catching up on 'girly' things in the evening, I keep myself busy walking Karen's dog and day tripping to Rocky Mountain National Park.
The evening before our flight back to Jacksonville I enjoy a wonderful one-on-one dinner with my son. Prior to this trip I had not seen Jim in over six months and, over drinks and great food, we spend some real quality time together, just father and son.
It was a great trip.
We get back to the boat around 11:00pm on Wednesday night after an exhausting day of travel. The next morning, while Shirley is working, I repack a bag for my upcoming solo trip to Cincinnati. Shirley is way too busy with work to take another trip and I need to see my 94-year-old Mother and catch up with our daughters and grand daughters in the Cincinnati area. I fly out of Jacksonville on Friday and touch down in Cincinnati at 7:30pm.
It is good for the soul to spend quality time with Mom, visit with my sisters Kathy and Julie, and catch up with our good friends Robert, Karen and Shawn. On Monday, while visiting our daughter Erica and her husband Shawn in Marysville, Ohio, I have the opportunity to inspect the progress that they have made on the restoration of their Island Trader 37 ketch. On Wednesday our daughter Jess and grand daughter Livy join us at Mom's for a visit and then lunch at a Mexican restaurant.
My last few nights are spent at our daughter Jamie's house where I have the opportunity to hang with grand daughters Lauren, Ali and Caroline. We play a round of 'Hand and Foot' the night before Caroline and Ali start their first day of the 8th grade. I am up early on the big day to make them my famous French Toast and then drive them to school.
Meanwhile, back in stormy Jacksonville, Shirley has been putting in 10-to-12 hour days on the phone, answering e-mails and making on-line adjustments. As her week drags on tropical storm Dorian, currently east of the Bahamas, grows in strength, becomes a category 3 hurricane and is predicted to head up the east coast of Florida with Jacksonville squarely in the "cone".
As my Friday departure approaches the hurricane predictions get progressively worse. Shirley tells me that our marina family is beginning to show signs of nervousness; both Shirley and I are anxious to be reunited and to begin our hurricane preparations. According to current predictions, it looks like we will have a good 36 hours to get everything battened down and to make our evacuation plans (if needed).
Shirley has been experiencing some wild weather back at the marina. Every afternoon for the past few days the very hot and humid late afternoon skies become dark and stormy.
Brief but heavy thunderstorms, accented with impressive chain lightning, roll through, cooling things off and setting the stage for some spectacular sunsets. Shirley, our official ‘boatographer’ captures the beautiful scenes. Not surprisingly, the XO has already begun hurricane preparations before my arrival.
Saturday, August 31
Hurricane Dorian is bearing down upon us; it is anticipated that the storm will make landfall in about 48 hours but the general location cannot be determined at this time. Shirley experienced hurricane Sandy in Annapolis several years ago but Dorian will be my first; I am nervous and excited. Fortunately, our marina is said to be a very good hurricane hole. We are approximately 22 miles from the ocean and the fetch in any direction is short.
Saturday afternoon we decide to drive to Neptune Beach to check out the ocean. Dorian is moving north very slowly, is still south of us and the eye wall is at least 30 miles off shore. The moody seascape is stunning and the kite boarders are taking full advantage of the wind and the waves; they are having a good time.
Dorian is really taking her time getting here and has been ravaging the Bahamas for several days now. I can’t imagine what it must be like to endure category 4 winds for over 36 hours; we all wonder if anything will be left. At least a half dozen of our marina friends have spent many winters in the Bahamas and have close friends who live there full-time; everyone is worried.
In the mean time, the marina hosts a Hurricane Watch Party. Everyone is expected to bring a dish while the marina supplies the wine, beer and soft drinks. The party is well attended and there are some very creative dishes including a dolphin fruit salad and "Dorian (taco) Dip".
There are quite a few experienced boaters at the marina who have lived through many hurricanes, including the destructive Irma 2 years ago, and watching the calm and measured approach taken by these veterans to secure their vessels has been educational and reassuring. I believe that Perfect Love is now prepared for the worst. She is well secured in a heavy, concrete floating dock; all fenders are strategically positioned, all lines are doubled (some tripled) and the deck has been completely stripped of anything that could possibly take flight in +100mph winds.
If Dorian is a category 2 (or higher) storm and takes direct aim at Jacksonville we will leave the boat for an appropriate shelter, otherwise we intend to stay with our good ship.
Sunday, September 1
We are still in the ‘kill zone’ of Dorian and, if the storm does not make the turn to the north that is predicted, it could get very ugly here in Jacksonville. The National Hurricane Center is now predicting that Dorian's eye wall will be about 50 miles off of the Jacksonville coast on Tuesday night. We hope that the predictions are correct, but all we can do is watch and wait.
Tuesday, September 3
Dorian is supposed to introduce herself to us sometime after midnight. It looks like the eye wall will be at least 50 miles off shore, maybe more, so the storm should not be too severe here at the marina. The weather is currently balmy, overcast with a 5-10knot breeze and low humidity; it is actually very comfortable outside. The boat is completely secured and we are ready for whatever comes our way.
Wednesday, September 4
It is now 2:00am, I have been up all night and intend to remain awake until the brunt of the storm has past, but things are still calm right now.
Shortly before 3:00am the wind suddenly begins gusting up to 30 knots and torrential rain starts to pound the deck. Here we go!!!
The fury lasts for about 2 hours and then, as the winds settle down, the rain stops. The extreme outer edge of the monstrous hurricane Dorian is now past us. We have had afternoon pop-up thunderstorms that packed a bigger punch; with less than 2 inches of rain we didn't even get a measurable storm surge. I am oddly disappointed, but relieved nonetheless.
Until next time, may our tomorrow bring fair winds and following seas.
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